The joy of flying?
I read my mate John Lyle’s blog when I got back to the UK about his experiences of air travel – notably BMI and RyanAir. You can read his comments here.
They have ways of conveying bad news!
I had to wait until I got back to the UK, as WordPress (who rather excellently host this blog) are not flavour of the month in China. I couldn’t actually see my blog, but had a work-around to post submissions. It was frustrating at times – but I got there in the end!
Anyway back to the current subject – flying.
I flew to China with Virgin Atlantic, who I have generally found to be excellent. But my flight back was a bit of a trial. When I arrived at the airport they told me there was a thirty minute delay – which was due to the late arrival on the inbound aircraft. Sure enough we were all loaded on board – at which point the Captain gave us the good news and bad. Good – everyone was on board with their ‘stuff’. Bad – we were in the queue to leave – behind the plane at the side of us. He had been there for two hours. It was busy and I assume it had come as a surprise to Air Traffic Control that all these planes had gatecrashed the airport?
I knew it was bad when they put the films on – and then started cooking!
I was half way through Bad Lieutenant (which was rubbish) when the announcement came that we had a slot – 2 hours after our original. So that was good news.
Then more bad news. A lady had decided not to fly – she was unwell. So she was de-planed. With her luggage. This cost us our slot.
Eventually we took off – and faced some interesting weather. The storms were quite spectacular over northern China. We wriggled our way around them as best we could!
I landed at Heathrow 14 hours 35 minutes after I first sat in my seat! The flight time was 11 hours 46 minutes…
There is an inevitability about delays when you fly; and there is nothing you can do about it. It’s called powerlessness…
OBITUARY
Audi RS4 2007-2010
It is with great sadness that I have to announce the passing of my very good and trusty friend and who has been at my side for the last 47,000 miles and three years.
There was no prolonged illness – in fact no illness at all in her briefest of life. Just two regular ‘hospital‘ checks and a bit of new ‘shoe leather’ from time to time. She did once have a sticky ”heart” valve, but that was fixed in no time by the nice Doctor. I think I had pushed her a bit hard. She forgave me I think. She never mentioned it again.
Looking back, there might have been a big drinking habit, sometimes an outrageous amount – and she was always addicted to the hard stuff, but liked the occasional ‘short‘ too. Perhaps she drank more than you would think healthy. Certainly it was an insatious appetite for the nectar stuff. It wasn’t long before she needed another.
Her body was still in pretty good shape – despite her advanced years. There were a few bits of wear and tear, but you show me a three year old who doesn’t carry the odd bruise from play fighting?
I have a feeling that this isn’t the end for the old girl though. With any luck she will be resurrected and given a new identity and place to play? Her tattoo (aka distinguishing mark) will be removed today.
It’s been fun. She was certainly a high maintenance sort of girl. But she never failed to make me smile. She ran before she walked. She was a born sprinter.
So you should never say goodbye – it’s more auf wiedersehen pet. But until then, Vorsprung Durch Technik.
The new model arrives later today. She has a lot to live up to!
Audi RS4 RIP.
Shanghai 2010 – my thoughts….
It is time for me to pack my bags and leave China. I have a 12 hour flight ahead…
It has been an amazing trip. And it is difficult to try and convey on my blog what I thought. But I will try!
I actually drank some of this!
Shanghai is just a mad place. Big, brash, noisy and full of beans. I wasn’t sure what to make of it at first, but latterly as I found more of the City I grew to like it. Xintiandi, The Old Town and the Bund all have some historical context- Pudong is more modern and has some fantastic architecture. The Cloud 9 bar on the 88th floor of The Jinmao Tower is incredible (as is the taller World Trade Centre next door at 101 floors), but when the next skyscraper gets built it will be 150 stories – nearly 50% higher again. I saw the WTC in cloud more than once – so the new building will have interesting views.
The Expo conference was interesting and there were some great speakers – some real food for thought. But the Expo itself left me wondering what it was all about. I was glad, though, that the UK Pavilion was not an embarrassment to us! It was utterly brilliant – fun, quirky and inexplicable. I like that! Some of my Luddite friends will think it a nonsense. But they are just a bit off the pace?
Then Ningbo was much better than I expected it to be. It is different; smaller scale, but fiercely ambitious. The new town they will build is going to be huge. The University Campus is something we can be proud to be part of. The Chinese people are.
The food has been excellent throughout my trip. The Government Banquet in Ningbo was a real experience, but other Chinese meals have been good too. I am not entirely sure what I have been eating sometimes. But ‘when in Rome’? Dumplings are very nice! And the tomato is a fruit – eaten with melon for pudding! The snacks I had one night I later discovered had eyes – it was a good job we were eating in the dark!
Duck & Turtle sauce for supper sir?
I have seen some strange sights – live food at the side of the road is never going to catch on in the UK!
The heat and humidity are energy sapping. And I was told it was quite cool when I was here – it regularly reaches 40 degrees. 95% humidity is not unusual – especially in Ningbo. It can be decidedly unpleasant.
Transport is easier than I thought it would be. Taxi fares are incredibly cheap – my average fare for a 15 minute trip was £1.50. The tube is even cheaper – 30p or 40p a ride. The Maglev from the airport is fantastic; the bridge across from Shanghai to Ningbo is an amazing engineering feat.
I have made some new friends along the way, both in the Public and Private sector – and both English and Chinese.
Our translators and advisors in all things Chinese - Jessica & Meadow
Sadly, my Chinese speaking is no better than it was at the start of the week. But this was partly that we had some excellent translators for the week! Jessica and Meadow from Nottingham City Council were brilliant – at least I think they were! I shall never know – although we never go thrown out of anywhere when they were around.
Would I come back? – Yes definitely.
Would I recommend it? – Yes definitely.
But you have to get off the beaten track – much like most places, the tourist traps are the same. But the real China can be found – and it is only just beneath the skin. And when you find it, it is great. It is not repressed as far as I can see, but I was in a very Westernised part of the Country.
And if I could sum up the attitude of this place, I would steal (on their behalf) the old Nike slogan “Just Do It”! That should do nicely!
Zaijian!
Shanghai 2010 – day seven – a day off?
This was my day off. After the frenetic arrangements of the last week or so (where has the time gone) I had a day to myself. Most other people were travelling home today or were going elsewhere in China.
Saved from demolition by the art fraternity!
I had heard about an art project known as M50 – and decided to try and visit. It was easy enough to find on the map – close to the main Shanghai Railway Station. As it turned out, it was a 15 minute walk – in the sweltering heat! That was after I left the biggest railway station I have ever seen behind! Shanghai Railway Station could swallow up two or three New York Grand Central’s! Think Birmingham Airport!
Having found the art project I looked as though I had played squash for an hour! At least the sun was out…
The place is an amazing mix of independent art studios – all in an old grungy factory. It is a far cry from the shiny buildings I have seen for the last week. It is said that the old guard here dislike (mistrust?) artists – but the younger generation are taking to it. There were several pieces I would have bought, but taking them under my arm on the plane tomorrow might be an issue! But it was a fascinating place – and I had a mojito in “traveled tea and coffee” – by the side of the aircon machine!
I headed back to The Peoples Square by tube – a short trip that costs 30p! By this time the sun had not got his hat on, but the sky was an angry black – the rain started with a vengeance. I took cover in a well known coffee shop – thank goodness for them – what a piece of luck!
I had a quick detour to the French Concession – a quarter of the city close to the Old City – but this mostly populated by big brand names – Montblanc, Cartier et al… I was getting wetter.
The Bund - looking toward Pudong
So I walked the mile or so back to the Bund. I resisted the temptation to buy Rolex Watches, Louis Vuitton bags and DVD’s from the hawkers – although some require you to explain with words representing Sex & Travel that you don’t want them. I can be multi-lingual if I try.
The Bund was busy – and I got fed up of taking pictures of people for their albums – and explaining where I was from. With only a few hours to go, the grumpy old man is kicking back in! They are all very nice, but I just wanted to drink my Orangina and take pictures for myself! People staring at you on the tube is quite normal – I think it’s the extra head I have grown… grrrr.
I had hoped to visit the Museum of Modern Art this evening, but the rain thwarted that idea. So I headed up to the 48th floor revolving bar of the hotel and watched the impressive thunderstorms!
So that’s it for my visit to Shanghai – I might have time for a bit of shopping tomorrow, but those nice people at Virgin have offered to take me back west.
Just the packing then…
Shanghai – top gear top tips
My son Jack is learning to drive and in case he ever comes here I thought I would jot down some of the ‘rules’ of driving as I have observed. I’m not sure that these are all tested, but they are certainly practised every day by the Shanghai people.
Try to text lots of short messages
1. You must never have lights on bikes or scooters especially at night for fear of dazzling (or being seen)
2. Scooter drivers should, if possible, use time driving carefully – preferably by doing other things – smoking and using mobile are acceptable. Texting is a very good thing.
3. Scooters should be used to carry more than one person if possible. Four (with luggage) is preferable. Pets are encouraged. Never ever wear a helmet.
4. U-turns should be used frequently – especially if there are more than ten lanes of traffic. Try to move smoothly across all lanes.
5. Red lights are just advisory – stopping can be very dangerous to the traffic behind.
6. If turning right (left) always try to do this from the left (right) hand lane. Nip out quickly though.
7. On dual carriageways try to ‘mix it up’ by travelling in the wrong direction for a few hundred yards – this is especially effective in rush hour to keep other drivers alert. Gaps in the road barriers are for a reason – use them.
8. Zebra crossings give you an opportunity to corral many people – this helps in controlling population growth. Remember as the driver you have the right to be there. Do be careful of the scooters though.
9. Speed limits are for girls. Travel at maximum speed except where speed cameras are present, please brake suddenly and sharply a few yards before-hand.
10. On narrow streets remember – accelerate fast, sound horn continuously, weave smoothly. If pedestrians step out drive at them.
11. Try to cut people up – this is a matter of honour. If you can get a cigarette between you and the other car – you are NOT close enough.
12. If you observe ‘speed bumps’ do as they say – SPEED…
13. If you have a bike please make sure it has no brakes.
14. After you have mastered all of these skills – think about becoming a taxi driver. But only do this is if (a) you can’t see (b) you don’t speak any language (c) You have no idea where anything is.
I think this sums things up nicely. And having said all of this I haven’t seen one accident or road-kill incident – but I have no idea why not…
Chain Day 6 – Ningbo (part three!)
After we left the University Campus at Ningbo, we were treated to a visit to the Ningbo Museum.
This is a municipal building constructed 2 years ago at a cost of £25m. It extends to 300,000 square feet. The architecture is stunning – very cleverly done. It has a quirkiness that appeals to me.
I always worry that modern buildings that try to be old become pastiche and awful. But this is neither; it has a mix of modern and old. Modern in the form of cast in-situ concrete, old in the form of reused bricks and tiles. The pattern on the concrete is of bamboo. Internally it is a huge space. This doesn’t seem to be an issue in China!
We visited the visiting and permanent exhibitions – the visiting one of modern jewellery, then the standing exhibition shows various local artefacts found around 7,000 years ago. It is an impressive collection – in an even more impressive building.
Although this was a flying visit, it was well worth visiting.
I came away, again, with the feeling that the Chinese do ‘big’ very well and quite often. Being at the University campus reminded us of home and I couldn’t help bet compare the Museum with The Nottingham Contemporary.The Contemporary is around one-tenth of the size, cost about the same and is on a constrained site. The architecture is nowhere near as good (in my opinion).
China Day 6 – Ningbo (part two!)
Part of my trip to China included a visit to the University of Nottingham’s campus in Ningbo.
Would the real Trent Building stand up?
although the sun was shining when I got out of bed; it was incredibly humid. We were picked up at the hotel by coach and set off for the campus around 40 minutes away from the centre. It is adjacent the new town I blogged about yesterday.
Out of the haze appeared a carbon copy of the Trent Building in Nottingham – it was a weird feeling. It really does feel like home – except for the humidity.
The University now have 5,000 students in Ningbo. There are 350 staff and it is growing – mostly because of the University’s reputation. Typical rates of employment (or going on to study for a PhD) of Graduates from a Chinese University will be around 30%. At Ningbo, the figure is just over 94%. They select the best of the best from all over China.
But our visit was really to see the award winning CSET building. This is China’s first Zero Carbon building – it actually produces more power than in needs from its Solar Panels. There are geothermal heat pumps and a (very) green roof.
The CSET Building at Ningbo
At MIPIM two years ago, this building won the International ‘Green Building’ award.
The building has been designed to showcase various ‘green technologies’, but it also functions as a centre for research. Although designed by Italian Architects Mario Cucinella, the components were all sourced in China.
The design draws on Chines culture, the fan like pattern is set in a glass structure – which resembles a lantern. It certainly grabs your attention!
Professor Jo Darkwa (who I met first at the Expo conference) showed us around and explained that Chinese students are now taking a real interest in the technologies to reduce carbon.
This really is a fantastic facility – the campus is growing, which is due to its success.
We were made to feel very welcome; I think they appreciate what Nottingham University has done for the City.
It was a pity we didn’t have more time and that there were no students around (they arrive back next week). We had another task though…an amazing museum – more on that later!
China – day five – Ningbo
I am spending two days in Ningbo China as I blogged about earlier.
I was just a passenger for this bit
And last night I went to an Official banquet – which was preceded by a formal meeting. This was a first.
The formal meeting was held in a large room with chairs at the end for the two civic dignatories – Councillor Alan Clark from Nottingham City Council and Hua Changhui – our host. He is Vice Chairman of the Ningbo Committee of the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference. It was certainly an experience – we weren’t asked to say anything, just listen to the formal introductions and niceties. Ot lasted for half an hour.
Which was worth it for the meal. I think we had 15 courses of the best tasting food I have had all week. The atste was amazing – even if sometimes I wasn’t entirely convinced what I was eating…
The formalities continue during the meal when there are lots of toasts – with red wine. Probably 15-20. Some are collective, some are individual. I soon got the hang of it. But it is ‘bottoms up’ rules – in other words drain the glass. There is orange juice too, and the glasses only have a mouthful of wine which is immediately topped up by the sommelier. The banquet room also has its own chef.
There was a pudding of three slices of fruit….
We had been forewarned that this would be a ‘timed event. The host, having eaten, simply got up, said his goodbyes and left. He was gone aft 7.50pm – he arrived at 6.00pm. This apparently is normal.
I was told that this was a typical political meeting format – business ones tend to me more informal, but food is always involved. It is a critical part of any meeting – either before or after. I can’t see myself getting the opportunity to do this again, I did enjoy the experience, even if it was rather alien to our way of doing business.
China – Ningbo City – day five
Today I went on the longest bridge in the world (I think!). It crosses the Hangzhou Bay connecting Shanghai to Ningbo.
It has been open for three years and runs for 22 miles. It cost three quarters of a billion pounds! The journey time has been cut from around 6 hours to just over two – most of which was spent fighting our way through the morning traffic in Shanghai.
The city of Ningbo as viewed from my hotel window!
After a very brief check-in and even briefer lunch we were taken to a new town on the edge of Ningbo. This is known as The Ningbo Eastern New City – it covers an area of 15 square miles. Water is a common feature of Chines Architecture and this is no different – water courses run through the whole place.
Over 170,000 people will live here – and another 150,000people will work there. Some buildings are already complete, the pace of building is simply staggering.
As I mentioned in a previous blog there is a theme I have noted here in China – they just get on with things. There is master-planning going on, but the whole development process is concertined. It is just astonishing how quickly buildings Cities go up!
Although impressive there were some issues. It reminded me of Milton Keynes (they had never heard of concrete cows!) but there is a difference – it is high rise, buildings up to 450m high. And it is, of course, all new. One example was the Cultural Plaza, spread across 4 acres there will be 3.2m sqaure feet of buildings. In context Meadowhall Sheffield is around 1m square feet!
There was a suggestion that many of the residents will move from the old town into this new development. We weren’t told what would happen with the area vacated.
When pushed about sustainability, there seems to be a nod to it, but it I’m not sure it embedded into everything. There will still be a 60% reliance on the car. There was no aim to have zero carbon. Each developer needs to have one low carbon strategy.
I couln’t help but think there was a missed opportunity here. But you have to admire the ambition and drive.
UPDATE…
We have been discussing this strategy tonight on The Bund in Ningbo (The Bund seems to refer to a waterside walk and bar area). The suggestion seems to be that the carbon neutral strategy is taking hold, but some of the plans for the City were developed back in 2002. In terms of what gets left behind in the ‘old town’ it will probably be demolished. My concerns about all of the bad things about a new town (lack of history and culture etc.) are perhaps a symptom of the western world. Our Chinese interpreters believe that there is much more of a societal fabric; the bond between families and friends is much stronger – and shifting the whole place will not break that. I guess then that this is where our cultures are different.
Shanghai – Xintiandi urban renewal
Last night, after our long day at the Expo, we headed into another ‘suburb’ of Shanghai – Xintiandi.
This is a fascinating place, much smaller scale than the masive skyscrapers found at Pudong and around The Bund. It is a modern urban renewal project.
There is a museum at the heart of it. The Shikumen Open House tells the story of the area. Shikumen is the type of housing found in the area. Think “Coronation Street” but much bigger!
It basically grew in the 1930′s and followed a pattern of alleyways (known as Long- tangs) and houses behind gates. The term Shikumen literally translated means ‘stone gate’. There were a mixture of houses but the museum house was a fairly substantial family house with well-proportioned rooms and clearly the seat of an educated family. I am not sure that all houses were like this!
It was home to 8,000 families, but fell into disrepair in the 1970′s and 80′s. There was little money to resolve the problems, so the whole was redevloped. The people were relocated and a mass demolition took place, except for the facades. New shops and restaurants were created – and this is now a low level entertainment centre.
It really is a great example of how to do urban renewal. What remains of the old fabric has been faithfully restored – particularly the doorways. But they have been able to create new spaces behind. Some of the restaurants and bars are simply stunning. One had gold leaf on the walls…and a bar made of stained glass.
So far, this has been my favourite part of Shanghai – and I hope to get back before I leave for home.
There is a theme emerging here though – when a decison is made to do something, there is little sign of messing around. 8,000 families were relocated from this area to create a new district. For the Expo, it was 18,000 people.
Getting things done is what the Chinese seem to do best! Not much seems to get in the way.
